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Re: Homeland Robbers (Spoiler)
"Forest Robber" should mean their "tribe" is vagabond (rather than one of the neighboring "real" tribes). It's very useful to keep track of what kind of robbers you're looking for, as it's not at all uncommon in this version for multiple robber gangs to be present in the same area, so if you've e.g. found a group of Kuikka Tribe robbers you know that's not the ones you're looking for (a bug in the current version causes too many robber gangs to spawn, especially if you decline to take up such quests). The only way to find robbers that I know of is to search each and every tile in the rather large target area, and they're very rarely visible on the overland map. I think they tend to have a shelter in their "home" tile, though. The way I go about looking for robbers is to pass back and forth over the target area like weaving a tapestry, one line at a time. I enter each tile, look forward, turn 180 degrees, look backwards, exit out, turn 180 degrees, walk one tile, zoom in, ... This takes something like 2-5 days to cover the area (stopping when it gets dark: I tend to use markers to indicate where I stopped), but it's still possible to miss the robbers. When looking for the robbers I typically use the beggar tactic, i.e. my character isn't equipped with my top gear, but rather junk I'm prepared to surrender to the robbers if they catch me. When I've found them (robbed or escaped) I typically mark the location, round up a bunch of companions, and return to participate in a sorry spectacle of death, friendly fire, and companions that refuse to help while their companions are fighting for their lives (some of this fixed in the next version). If you're unlucky the robbers are in spruce infested forest, in which case you probably need luck to find them. In other terrain the visibility is good enough that you probably have to be unlucky to miss them (provided you're moving slightly to see past big obstacles). September 20, 2017, 09:02:13 AM |
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Re: Which one is the best flour?
I'm the one who just went and updated the flour page on the wiki. I did some testing with an object inspector to look at nutrition and such. Grinding flour from grains, seeds, or roots keeps the same nutrition values as the original, as well as the same weight. The carb, fat, and protein values given are percentages of the weight that is each nutrient (i.e., grams of nutrient per 100g weight). Barley gives the most nutritious flour, at ~1370 calories per pound. Rye, clayweed, and lake reed flours are all above 1,000 calories per pound, while hemp (seed), marsh calla, and bogbean flours are all just below 1,000 calories per pound. You can make flour from nettle, turnip, sorrel, and yarrow seeds, but it's much much less nutritious than the other kinds of flour. If you want to figure out what to plant for the most calories, then you need to account for the number of plants that can grow in each tile and the total number of calories produced by each plant. Note too that you've got it backwards: rye produces three fistfuls of grains, and barley produces two, not the other way around. On a per-plant basis:
But for planting, this ordering gets shifted again because you can plant many more turnips and grains in a single tile than beans:
So: grow barley if you want the best flour (most nutritious breads, porridges, and stews). Grow rye if you want the most total calories of flour. February 07, 2018, 06:09:06 PM |
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Ski archery in traditional, northern and asiatic fashion video
Today's clip (from my archery channel) is so UrWish that it needs to be here: Archery on skis in northern fashion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez1CUoz0tdQ Skiing archer can be quite effective, and Sami people even had ski-taff bows with rim and head attached to lower part of the bow so no separate ski staff was needed at all. The video also makes you think that the the game [w]ielding rules could be adjusted a bit.  March 06, 2018, 07:58:56 PM |
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quality of life
For new players: Since the UI can be a bit unwieldy at times, here's some things I learned: ----- The combination of using NUMPAD+ and the TAB key is really useful to drop, equip, dress/undress/haul certain items without having to scroll through your stuff. NUMPAD+ = select everything SPACE = confirm TAB = activate filter ----- Examples: TAB+'f' selects all food, so it is very useful to dump all the food into the cellar. TAB+'f', NUMPAD+ and SPACE do a great job here. If I want to cook those 259 elk cuts, what I do is press 'd' (to drop) press NUMPAD+ (to select everything) press TAB 'f' press NUMPAD- (to unselect everything) press SPACE (Now I will drop everything that is not food) When roasting my cuts I can now use 'r' to repeat, and if I am only carrying raw meat, the process is really fast. I do the same for tanning stuff, drop everything except hides, press 'g' to get my knife (and some fat) from the pile at my feet, and I am ready to go with 0 penalties I do the same when trading in a village sometimes, when I drop everything I don't want to sell. I undress all clothing via SHIFT+T, TAB 'a', NUMPAD+, SPACE. Now I can let the villagers choose "which items they actually want", and I can also carry more. ----- The game takes materials from the ground. When crafting it is useful to first drop everything (NUMPAD+, SPACE), and then pick up some critical materials that cannot be used from the ground (like food or cords). ----- When cooking (or drying food) it is useful to build the cellar right next to the shelter. This way I can make a fire next to the cellar and cook while standing on the cellar. The food is prepared "inside" the cellar. If the fire is really small, the food won't burn and will be stored in the cellar without the need to move it there. ----- About drying food: On my first couple of games I didn't know that clothing can be used to make cords. Linen, wool, leather, and fur clothing can be transformed into cords. One cord can take 19 cuts. ----- Food preservation: Food on companions spoils more slowly. Shift+'g' can be used in the overland map, so whenever I am hungry, I can take some meat from my companion instead of carrying the food myself. (Also useful for trading.) June 03, 2018, 09:29:00 PM |
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Mini Zoo in Unreal World
Finally after spending soo many winter, manage to capture a few animal in unreal world. The ultimate animal in unreal world. It can destroy the puny fence easily.  Next challange, capturing a nperjez... June 17, 2018, 11:05:26 AM |
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Re: Mini Zoo in Unreal World
This is awesome! How'd you do it? Feel like sharing? For the bear part, he spawn just spawn beside my newly built cabin tiles. Just simply throw stone/rock to the bear to get him to follow you into the house. Club him until unconscious while he in the house. Deconstruct the door. Kick his skull again. Start to build the wall with windows. Stop building every 30 minutes to 1 hour to kick/punch the bear skull to make sure he dont wake up. Voila, you now have a bear in the house. But sadly, the bear will be despawn/dissppear after some times when his timer expired. Strangely, the bird never get despawn, maybe its located in the village instead of the wilderness settlement. I even got lucky enough to capture a Npez Maiden in her village. She seem to be ok. Never get despawn. June 18, 2018, 12:12:40 PM |
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Re: Mini Zoo in Unreal World
you don't plan to breed that njerp do you? wouls seriously consider that to prevent extinction. she the last njerp alive in the village. once she is dead there will be no more njerp on the map except those randomly spawn warrior wandering on the map. 
June 23, 2018, 07:43:30 PM |
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Re: Mini Zoo in Unreal World
Mini zoo Improvement This is how I "capture" those animal. 
June 27, 2018, 05:01:07 PM |
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Stonelobber's Primitive World mod
http://www.mediafire.com/file/0cunh7n090romzu/Primitive%20World%20Mod.zip For all you prehistoric role-playing enthusiasts out there, this one is sure to make you feel more at home right inside your cave! Everybody else might have moved on to the iron-age but you sure didn't! Who needs dumb ol' shiny metal anyway? You can craft everything you need out here in the wild. Are you prepared to die at the ripe old age of 24 in fear and violence like our ancient ancestors? (figuratively speaking, of course)  We used to be limited to chucking rocks by hand and slamming bears in the head with our puny one-handed club, but not anymore! Now you get a bigger and better club, that gets wielded with two hands!!! WOW! TWO WHOLE HANDS!!!! Why delay? Download the mod today ================================================= Features ================================================= First of all, this is a roleplay mod. You might not like the idea that I've changed your character to wear a loincloth (Male) or a crude covering (Female). This mod is supposed to make your character feel more "Caveman-ish" and less "local townsman". I know some of you will probably hate me for it, but like I said backup your original file. You can always undo. This mod gives you early Stone-age weapons, more appropriate for the time. It also has new tiles and recipes, clothing, several new submenus, etc. (I'll let you figure out the rest) NEW TOOLS AND WEAPONS incude: Stone-handaxe: Basic parameters of your standard stone-axe. Just changed the tile as well as the recipe to simulate realism and for immersion. Quicker to craft. -Cudgel:Which is actually just a plain ol' club with no parameters redefined, meaning nothing changed except the name. Unlike original club, is worth nothing. Made it quicker to craft. Still one-handed. -Stone Blade:Still just a stone knife. No changes except recipe. Longer to craft due to precious stone blades need time to chip an edge onto them. Tile changed. Handle removed off tile, added leather wrap to show realism. Nobody is gonna grab a stone blade barehanded. -Heavy club: A bigger version of the standard club that does twice the damage. It has good attack bonus and decent defense, the drawback being it weighs 8lbs. Isn't valuable, but it'll cave a Njerpez head in quite well. It's entirely twohanded, kinda simulating a stereotypical "Caveman club". Stops bears, wolves, and your local townspeople in their tracks. Usually instantly. Breaks bones and headshots are often lethal. -Greenbow: Added this to simulate just chopping down a sapling in the woods and tying a string on it like in real life. It actually has parameters to simulate realism just as well, by doing less pierce damage than that of the weakest in-game bow. It weighs less than all other bows, quicker to craft, and is best recommended for small game. It's really intended for nothing bigger than an arctic fox. -Primitive arrow: Just a firehardened sharpened stick. It's the simplest arrow you can craft. It's intended for use on very small game, in hopes it will do less damage to the hide. These arrows weigh almost nothing, are quick to craft and simple in essence. -Stone Tipped arrow: Causes more damage upon impact, chance to cause bleeding and inflicts more piercing damage. Meant to hunt game like stags and bear. Not as good as your base arrow, or broadhead arrows, but they are still quite effective. Only difference between stone tipped arrows and primitive ones recipe wise, is the fact that you need a rock and just a little bit longer to craft. -Pointed Stick: An effective tool of our ancestors. I've done away with Javelins for this bad boy right here. All you need is just like ancient times--- a sapling, and something to shave a point on the end of it. It's quite effective at inflicting stab wounds upon the target, but not as effective as your standard spear. It does enough blunt damage to dispatch small game, and inflict bruises on larger game. It's simple to make, and quick too. The balance is found in the fact that making pointed sticks doesn't increase any skills, nor does it have any value, but it can be made in the field in a pinch if you suddenly encounter large and dangerous game or predators of the two legged variety... It's drawback is it isn't very effective one handed, and has little in the way of attack/defense bonuses. -Sling: An ancient extension of our arm. It inflicts blunt force trauma from a distance, and it is quite effective at taking game from afar. It one shots small game quite easily, just like in real life. The drawback is that accuracy is harder to achieve beyond 8-10 tiles. Ammo for the sling is abundant, literally everywhere. It's meant to be used as an alternative to the bow, and only requires cordage to make, like in reality. It can outright kill large game or knock them unconcious depending on shot placement. It does damage small game hides, but that depends on the type of ammunition you use. Pebbles are better for small game and Stone ammo is better for combat and larger game. There's simply too much bone shattering force behind a sling. Sling vs. Bow --------------------------------------------------------- Lightweight (0.5 lbs) (2 lbs.) Weight of base bows Ammo weighs more (1lbs) (0.1 lbs) Ammo weighs less Ammo is abundant (Rocks) Ammo must be crafted Less accurate with greater range More accurate (Depends on bow) Simple to craft Simple to craft Less damaging to hides Does more hide damage Can hunt big game Can also hunt big game Can hunt small game Can also hunt small game -Ammo not counted as a loss if -Ammo counted as a loss if misplaced misplaced after shot. -Can break limbs -Cannot Break limbs effectively -Can cause fractures -Can easily disable your target -Stone Ammo: This is just a recipe for sling ammo. All you have to do is pick up a stone and craft it into a stone ammo to be shot from your sling. Plain stones will NOT work. It takes very little time whatsoever and you can get ammo just about anywhere. It does way more damage to small game than was intended. It's best used for larger game and humans, as it is intended for larger targets and to be a large game hunting and self-defense round. It's weight is the drawback, but it can severly maim or kill. Incredibly deadly, but a great anti-personnel. -Rock ammo: The middleground of damage between the Stone and pebble rounds. Poor penetration, medium blunt damage and exceptional at being a versatility round. Able to dispatch small-medium sized game, and disable larger ones. As noted will damage hides on small animals, unfortunately. -Pebble ammo: It takes a little time to create a stack of pebbles, but it's way more effective at taking down small game and doesn't damage the hide. The round hits harder than your average hand thrown rock and delivers enough force to severely injure small animals without mangling their bodies. Perfect for small game hunting, though larger targets will be left with bruises and bloodied noses lol. Could possibly be used effectively against larger game too... -Rabbit stick: This is meant for small game, and although it barely does more damage than a club, it throws quite accurately 9 times out of 10. It is quite effective at hunting small game, and just like real life, is cost effective to make. Forget hunting squirrels in a tree with hand thrown rocks. Hand thrown rocks only inflict a blunt damage value of 1. The rabbit stick is more accurate, and does 4 blunt damage. WOW. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Utility items Cordage: made from bark, and another recipe to make it from herbs. Irl most outdoor savvy people can crank this stuff out of nothing but grass. Don't tell me I have to obtain only cloth just to have cord, Unreal World. I know better. Digging stick:I've replaced the wooden shovel with mankind's original digging tool, making it quicker to make, of less effort than a shovel, and simpler. ============================================= Other things:I've added new pelt clothing, fishing equipment, clay pottery, grass cordage, can dig for water and grubs, and some new cooking recipes(Can be found in file, not in game. Work in progress, need feedback and help with how cooking works.) I won't go into too much detail about all that, I'll let you FORAGE for the rest.  It's still a work in progress. If you find any issues or conflicts, let me know. It will be updated later, once I figure out how to script cooking recipes. (I find it slightly confusing atm). ENJOY! July 02, 2018, 11:10:27 PM |
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[Fixed - persists in 3.84.2] Fast/run skiing
AFAIK there's only one official skiing pace, which at grandmaster allows me to ski at 6 km/h. Pressing Shift-r informs you that "You can't run while skiing!" I just discovered that if I unequip the ski stick, press shift-r, and re-equip the ski stick, I'm able to "ski" at 12 km/h on thigh deep snow. Whenever I ski/run, the message log shows: You ski. You run. Running while not using skis and ski stick still allows me to run at 12 km/h for a tile or two and then I slow down. This does not make sense to me, especially while running on thigh deep snow without snow shoes. Disclaimer: I've never skied before, so I may be talking out of my ass. October 24, 2018, 09:29:06 PM |
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